I love sewing with silk and really want to tackle a chiffon kimono with some silk I’ve had in my stash for some time. A fine rolled hem would really be the go. Have a look at this divine chiffon from Tessuti.
Rolled hems can be done on an overlocker/serger and they can be done by hand. I really wanted use the rolled hem foot on my sewing machine. In theory the rolled hem foot makes a lovely narrow hem, in one step with no need for ironing. Ironing a narrow hem can be difficult and it’s easy to burn your fingers. The rolled hem foot for a regular machine has a roll or a curl that you feed the fabric through. It makes a very narrow hem, two folds, that you stitch in one step.
Some bloggers found the rolled hem foot the best thing ever, others think it’s more trouble than it’s worth. Between Stephanie at Totally Stitchin , By Hand London’s (BHL) nerdy sewing tips and some trial and error, I learnt a lot:
- a wide foot is easier to use than a narrow one. (I found the 4mm foot much easier than the 2mm one. The measurement is the width of the final hem).
- do use the iron to turn up one fold, don’t worry if it doesn’t hold really well. (This was Stephanie’s tip, the only place I’ve seen it and for me it made all the difference.)
- to start a hem and to cross seams, leave the needle in the fabric, but take the fabric out of the foot roll and sew using the foot as you would using an ordinary foot. (This was the BHL tip, and a good one because you really need to be able to cross seams if you’re hemming garments.)
Have a look at these hems on white linen and red silk. Next stop chiffon, woo hoo!
Here it is, step by step, with the silk chiffon.
Here is my silk top with the rolled hem (and the Cordova Jacket), out and about in marvelous Melbourne on the weekend. The top is bias cut, self-drafted. It’s a little shorter than I really wanted. That’s because I used trial and error on the garment and not scraps of the silk – I’d recommend testing on scraps!
The rolled hem works for fine fabric. As well as on tops (and soon hopefully the kimono) the rolled hem is perfect for scarves, table napkins and tea towels. The white linen, red silk and blue silk chiffon are all from Tessuti. The red is actually called ‘rhubarb’, how wonderful.
Hope you found these tips useful and if you have any other tips please let me know.
I’ve linked this post up at Sewing Saturdays where you can see what lots of others have been sewing.