New shirt (Vogue 8759) and tips for flat-felled seams

A new shirt for Simon. I think my shirtmaking skills are improving.

Barbara Jane made Vogue 8759.jpg

With Andrea’s collar tutorial, I now feel like I’ve mastered the collar and where it meets the front placketts.Barbara Jane made Vogue 8759.jpeg

This shirt has almost all flat-felled seams (all except the armsyce seams which I overlocked). I like flat-felled seams they are lovely neat finish and I think extra good for shirts that get a fair bit of washing and wearing.

My tip for easy flat-felled seams… Rather than doing the seam then trimming one side. This is what I do:

  • off-set the two pieces and then do the seam
  • press the seam open
  • press the wider seam allowance in half
  • press the folded seam allowance to cover the smaller one
  • give it all a good press
  • stitch on the wrong side at the edge of the folded wide edge to make sure it’s all caught
  • ta da a neat and strong seam, no raw edges.

Photos of each step at the end of the post, for those interested.

The fabric is a lovely crisp silk from The Fabric Store in Melbourne. I could have sworn it was blue in the shop, never mind, it’s still pretty.Barbara Jane made Vogue 8759.jpg

The pattern is Vogue 8759fitted with self lined yoke and 2 collar variations. I lengthened the body and the sleeves. I think the three-piece back is a nice fitting feature.Barbara Jane made Vogue 8759.jpeg

There seems to be quite a few books about shirtmaking around. I really like the look of this one reviewed by Sonja. Can you recommend others?

Barbara Jane made Vogue 8759.jpg

barbara jane made vogue.jpgwpid-wp-1416914881036[1]Flat-felled seams, step by step:

Barbara Jane made flat-felled seam.jpg

right sides together, stitch the seam with one edge off-set

One thing you do need to remember, is that off-setting the fabric like this, (rather than the stitch and trim one seam allowance method) will change your seam allowances slightly. Not an issue for a shirt like this where it can be tried for size as you go.

press the seam open

press the seam open

Press the wide edge in half

Press the wide seam allowance in half

Barbara Jane made flat-felled seam.jpg

press it to the other side to cover the smaller seam allowance

stitch on the wrong side on the folded edge

stitch on the wrong side on the folded edge

finished seam, wrong side, Barbara Jane made flat-felled seam

finished seam, wrong side

fBarbara Jane made flat-felled seam

finished seam, right side

 

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7 thoughts on “New shirt (Vogue 8759) and tips for flat-felled seams

  1. I also live to do flat felled seams on my shirts. If you put the sleeves in before sewing up the sleeve and side seams it is easier to flat fell them too. I have now got a felling foot for my sewing machine which has made it even easier to sew.

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