A new shirt for Simon. I think my shirtmaking skills are improving.
With Andrea’s collar tutorial, I now feel like I’ve mastered the collar and where it meets the front placketts.
This shirt has almost all flat-felled seams (all except the armsyce seams which I overlocked). I like flat-felled seams they are lovely neat finish and I think extra good for shirts that get a fair bit of washing and wearing.
My tip for easy flat-felled seams… Rather than doing the seam then trimming one side. This is what I do:
- off-set the two pieces and then do the seam
- press the seam open
- press the wider seam allowance in half
- press the folded seam allowance to cover the smaller one
- give it all a good press
- stitch on the wrong side at the edge of the folded wide edge to make sure it’s all caught
- ta da a neat and strong seam, no raw edges.
Photos of each step at the end of the post, for those interested.
The fabric is a lovely crisp silk from The Fabric Store in Melbourne. I could have sworn it was blue in the shop, never mind, it’s still pretty.
The pattern is Vogue 8759 – fitted with self lined yoke and 2 collar variations. I lengthened the body and the sleeves. I think the three-piece back is a nice fitting feature.
There seems to be quite a few books about shirtmaking around. I really like the look of this one reviewed by Sonja. Can you recommend others?
Flat-felled seams, step by step:
One thing you do need to remember, is that off-setting the fabric like this, (rather than the stitch and trim one seam allowance method) will change your seam allowances slightly. Not an issue for a shirt like this where it can be tried for size as you go.